How to Tour Bath in 90 Minutes or Less

My husband works for Boeing and he occasionally travels with his job, jetting off to exotic vacation destinations like Glasgow Montana, Roswell New Mexico, and Fairbanks Alaska in the dead of winter. Needless to say, I’ve never felt the desire to accompany him on these business trips. But a few years ago, he casually dropped the news that he was being sent to Venice, Italy, for a couple of weeks, and asked if I wanted to go.

When I finally finished squealing with delight and jumping up and down, I ran to find my passport, arranged for a sub at work, and began making reservations. Boeing had taken care of my husband’s travel arrangements, but I was on my own. The first thing I discovered was that there are no direct flights from Seattle to Venice. I would have to stop over, or at least change planes somewhere – Rome, Amsterdam, Berlin, or London.

London? Hmm. That’s when the wheels started turning.

I was at the time working on my second Jane-Austen-inspired novel, For Myself Alone, which is set partially in Bath.  I’d gleaned what I could about the town from Austen’s writings and other sources, but I couldn’t help thinking how fantastic it would be to visit the place in person. If I had to pass through London anyway, why not stay a day or two and hop on an excursion to Bath? An inspired idea! So, I booked two nights at a London hotel and started hunting on the internet for a tour to Bath.

In hindsight, I probably would have been better off to consult a train schedule. But, since I’m not a seasoned international traveler, I was still hoping to avoid the scary prospect of navigating public transportation on my own in a foreign country. So I signed on to the only bus tour I could find going to Bath, with the bonus that it made stops at Hampton Court Palace and Stonehenge on the way. The big plus was that it was supposed to pick me up at my hotel. Nothing could be simpler or more convenient. Right?

As you may have already guessed, my carefully laid plans didn’t work out exactly as I had envisioned. Turns out that when the tour company advertised “hotel pick up service,” they didn’t mean my hotel. But, a city bus and subway ride later, I caught my tour and I was on my way. Hampton Court was very interesting and Stonehenge captured my imagination more than I had expected, yet I was chomping at the bit to move on to Bath. I longed to see for myself the places Jane Austen mentioned in her books, and to spend the entire afternoon strolling the cobbled streets she knew so well.

When we at last rolled down from the hills into town, I craned my neck and was delighted to catch sight of the Pultney Street Bridge over the Avon. That was the first “check” on my list of must-sees. Yay! The bus parked behind the Abbey and, before turning us loose, our guide matter-of-factly informed us what time we needed to be back aboard. I gasped. I want to scream in protest. An hour and a half?!? That was nowhere near enough time!

Nothing I could say or do would change the schedule, however. It was be back at the appointed time or get left behind. So, with the stopwatch already running, I raced off.

I hurried through the Roman Baths, learning from an on-site guide how the place would have looked entirely different in 1800 (check). Next, the Pump-room (check), where I sampled the healing mineral water from The King’s Fountain (check) – warm but not nearly as redolent of sulfur as I expected. Then I crossed the churchyard for a quick tour of the Abbey (check), with its soaring ceiling and magnificent stained glass windows on all sides. I paused in a pew for a couple precious minutes, to take it all in before reluctantly moving on.

With a glance at my watch, I decided to head for the Royal Crescent. Here’s where Bath’s terrain comes into play. The oldest part of the town was established on a fairly level area beside the river. But it later spread out from there, up the slopes of the surrounding hills. So when you read in Northanger Abbey that Catherine Morland is attending a ball at the “Upper Rooms,” it’s called that because these newer assembly rooms are literally at a higher elevation than the old ones. What it meant for me, however, was that the hike to my destination would be all uphill.

Along the way, I had the presence of mind to turn and look for Beechan Cliff (check), which I could see peeking out over the tops of the Georgian-style buildings. Then I luckily stumbled across the Jane Austen Center (check) on my way up Gay Street. Wishing I had an hour to spend, I popped in just long enough to purchase a couple of informative books from a helpful clerk.

A little further up the street, I entered The Circus (check), a circle of connected town houses in three segments, with a green at the center. I wondered if the same old trees stood there in Jane Austen’s day (No, according to my research later).

Exiting the Circus to the left, I finally reached the Royal Crescent (check), with its expansive front lawn and famed gravel walk (check, check). I admired the view, took a few pictures, and then turned to run for the bus.

I’m sure I looked like a mad woman, flying down the gravel walk and cobbled streets as if pursued by an 18-century apparition. I was in a panic; I had already used up every one of my ninety minutes and now pictured the bus pulling away without me. It didn’t, but I got a reprimanding glare from the guide when I climbed back aboard, excessively out of breath and precisely seven minutes late.

Lucky thing they waited for me, or was it? Thinking back, I feel fortunate that I got the chance to see Bath, and I’m amazed how much I was able to accomplish in so short a time. But, oh, how I wish I could have stayed longer! If I’d missed my bus, I would have had my wish… and another story to tell.

 

Do you have a Bath story? Or have you experienced a similar humorous/nightmarish travel fiasco? What’s your dream Jane Austen vacation destination?

 

 

 

 

Shannon Winslow

Shannon Winslow was minding her own business - raising a family and working at a practical job - when Jane Austen changed her life. Suddenly smitten by all things Austen (and "Pride and Prejudice" in particular), she was inspired to write a sequel to her favorite book. With the success of her first novel, "The Darcys of Pemberley," she never looked back. Now pursuing writing full-time, Winslow has gone on to write two more Austenesque novels with more stories to come. She lives with her husband south of Seattle.

26 Responses to How to Tour Bath in 90 Minutes or Less

  • Katrin W says:

    My bath story:
    I was in London a few years ago around New Years together with a friend. We had decided on seeing all kinds of things together in London and then she asked if I was interested in going to Liverpool for the day. She really wanted to see that. And I had thought of Bath. We had quite the argument about the whole ´are we going there together or just splitting up for the day´ – in the end she went to Liverpool and I went by train to Bath and we met in the evening in the hotel.
    She is no Jane Austen fan, so I didn´t want to bore her in Bath with things I definitly wanted to see, and I, on the other hand, had not much interest in Liverpool (which might be wrong, I hope I get another time for a longer holiday in the UK).
    So I went to the Pump Rooms for afternoon tea alone, to the Jane Austen Centre alone, walked on the circus and the royal crescent alone , and enjoyed it immensly!!

    I know that I definitly want to go there again and that one day is not enough time (I don´t want to think about 1 1/2 hours :D :D )!

    • Being on your own is SO much better than having someone along who’s not interested in what you are. I would have thoroughly enjoyed myself if only I’d had more time! Yes, I definitely need to go back someday. A UK book signing tour?

  • Monica Britt says:

    How funny. My husband and I got lost in Bath. He’d seen a large section of street vendors and was sure he’d marked the correct tower to guide us back to the bus. Nope. We were so lost trying to get back and WAY late. Our tour guide finally found us and guided us to our tour group. Lots of snickering as the hubs had earlier boasted that he never got lost. Wish we’d had more than 90 minutes in Bath, too!

  • I am in awe of the beautiful pictures.

  • Audrey says:

    You managed to see a lot more of Bath in your 90 minutes than I did! I took my niece to London for her graduation present and let her lead our activities. We spent ALL of our time at the Roman Bath and Pump Room. She probably would have stayed there all day if we could have! Next time we go, I get to participate in the planning!

    • I hope you do get to go again – for longer and on YOUR plan. The Roman baths are cool, but not as interesting to JA fans once you learn that it’s not at all how it looked in her time.

      • Audrey says:

        As much as I love my favorite niece, she has horrible taste in authors (according to me). She has never even read JA. Can you believe it?! I

  • Megan says:

    Thanks for the post Shannon! I’m planning on visiting Bath when I’m in England in a few weeks, so I loved reading this and the pictures! Katrin I can sympathize, I was in England 5 years ago and my friend was not a JA fan so I’m planning on making up for that this trip. (My friend and I made up for her lack of JA enthusiasm with Harry Potter stuff that we were both into though (: ) If anyone has any other tips fro places to visit I’d love to hear them!

  • Joanna Yeoh says:

    Yes, I too, jumped at the chance to go to Bath on a local tour from London :) I remember vaguely noting the house Jane Austen stayed in while in Bath, as the tour guide pointed it out. I went to the Roman Baths too but unfortunately, chose to omit the Pump Room, due to my arthritic knees.
    I wandered along the streets instead, stopping at a cafe for a tea break. I too, had only a short time in Bath, two hours. I remember passing by the Royal Crescent and a sign with “Bennett Street” on it. I was left wondering if it had been named after the family! :P
    My dream Jane Austen vacation is to experience life in the Regency era, much like in Shannon Hale’s Austenland :)

  • suzan says:

    What a wonderful post! I loved the pics! You got so much accomplished in 90 minutes. Wow! It must have been an incredible “rush”. heehee I have never been to the UK. It’s a dream vacation as mentioned. We did however get left by a tour bus in Hawaii. I didn’t know all the buses eventually went back into town and so while we’re waiting for a public bus and I’m asking each driver they must have gotten quite a laugh. I however got a horrendous sunburn waiting for hours. I probably could have walked back into town in that time. I guess I did think about it but by that time the pain was starting…smiles. We did get an upgraded room since it was a package deal but the other passengers on the bus tour said the guide didn’t count the passengers and he actually left 2 minutes early. Aw, such fond memories.

  • Wow! I am impressed, Shannon. Well done! Better a little than none at all, I suppose. Every time I daydream of visiting England I come to the conclusion that I need at least a month to begin to see what I would HAVE to see. I suppose in a weird way it is one of the reasons I don’t go, because I know something would be left out and I can’t bear it!

  • SharonLee says:

    We were there right after Christmas in 2002. We expected rain and being from Seattle, rain doesn’t bother us (we came “armed for Bath” as Captain Wentworth would say). However, it was pouring rain in Bath, not the light sprinkling we had experienced in London. The other problem was that all the tour busses arrive and depart at the same time, so it’s wall to wall people where you can get out of the rain. I had a prepared in advance for what I wanted to see and where it was, but you had to just run from place to place due to the rain. We made it through the Baths and then stopped to get a pasty. i’ve been making pasties for years, so I wanted to try one in England. Then it was up to the Jane Austen Centre to look around and some gifts. Finally we went to the Abbey to look around (and get out of the rain). We had a great time and got very wet. We also wished we had spent more time in Pouring Rain (what we now call Bath).

    • A fellow Seattleite! Yes, we know a thing or two about rain, don’t we. Except most people here don’t seem to bother with umbrellas – too much hassle to climb in and out of cars with them, I think. Thanks for sharing your Bath story!

  • I love Bath. It’s so visually appealing. It practically glows!

  • Karana says:

    Wow what an adventure. At least you were there right. I would love to go to the Jane Austen Festival in Bath some day, be able to dress up, see the sites, etc. Of course my husband, who is a Sherlock Holmes fan, wants to go to London.

    My horrible vacation was when I was a kid, and my dad decided to take an impromptu trip to southern Illinois where he grew up. After several hourse of driving, he got tired and decided to stop at a well lit place along the road for the night which turned out to be a maximum security prison! We then preceded to a small motel which we lovingly refer to now as the Bates Motel now. It was horrible. We had to sleep on our sleeping bags on top of the beds because of all the bugs we saw crawling around. The next day we saw cabins for rent just another mile up the road. Of course that night we made him stop at a well known chain hotel just for putting us through the night before. That was the last trip we ever took.

  • Sophia Rose says:

    I had only one afternoon to tour the Grand Canyon and when I got there it was T-storming. At each vista point, I had to time it between waves of the storm. I would race out in the open look around quickly, snap a picture and race back to the shelter of my car.

    I’ve never been to Bath, but it sounds like a very eventful trip and you still had Italy to look forward to at the end.

    Thanks for sharing!

  • Shannon, that is one incredible whirlwind! I don’t know how you accomplished such a wonderful circuit in only 90 minutes. I can tell you right now I never would have been able to do it. I would have wrung my hands in nervous indecision for at least twenty minutes before choosing two places to visit…and still would have been 7 minutes late returning! (I’m a huge wimp about missing rides!) I’m so glad you were able to do it all. :)

  • Pamela Aares says:

    Love you story about Bath! I took my father there years ago, his first trip to England and we had such fun. My book JANE AUSTEN AND THE ARCHANGEL just released, would love you hear what you think of it! http://tinyurl.com/7c2nsm3
    keep up the lovely writing!

  • Lúthien84 says:

    Beautiful and glorious, Bath. I wish to visit Bath when I travel to England sometime in the near future and hopefully stay in the town for a night or two.

    Thanks Shannon for sharing your experience of Bath. :razz:

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